2020 Keller Pinot Noir "Niederflorsheim Frauenberg" Grosses Gewächs

The meaty, saline and savory elements on the nose are even more striking than in the corresponding Bürgel, suggesting mus-sels and escargot, while the fruity dimension evokes cherry and grenadine. Pithy concentration and a palpable impression of berry seed crunch and a peppery bite somehow coexist with an underlying sense of polish and gloss as well as a brightness that are scarcely achievable other than with Pinot Noir. Rich, smoky sug-gestions of nut oils add further intrigue and appeal, beautifully dovetailing with the aforementioned savory, animal elements. “The pronounced pi-quancy [Würze] and overt sense of [tannic] structure in Frauenberg puts me in mind a bit of Barolo,” comments Keller while I’m tasting this wine. In fact, the sense of bittersweet, inner-mouth, floral perfume that is a memorable part of this beauty’s finish is also Nebbiolo-like.