2020 Keller Pinot Noir "Dalsheimer Bürgel" Grosses Gewächs

High-toned cherry almond is accompanied by floral effusions sweetly suggestive of freesia and a strong suggestion of animal savor that seems equal parts veal and scallop. All of this cashes out on the glossy palate into bright, crunchy red berry juiciness, innermouth perfume and mouthwatering carnality. Smoke and toasted coconut hints are the only direct indications of oak influence, and they’re perfectly complementary. Nor, clearly, can wood be any significant drag on the finish because it’s impeccably pure-fruited, animatingly tangy and downright refreshing, as well as possessive of saline-sweet evocations of raw bivalves and crustacean that are quite uncanny.